The Turdogen Is Born

This is how the butcher does up some dogs for the fourth. Of course, this is just the tip of the Titanic iceberg, the way to wash down a few starter dogs and the preamble to some late-night dogs. Pictured: Boar’s Head all beef dogs with the nice snap, some fresh black and tans (pork and beef blend) carrying a decent char, turkey dogs and ball park franks as well as the Bubba Burger chaser. The gourmet German black and tans from the butcher’s counter at Schiavoni’e in Sag Harbor, as usual, represent a highlight of this Dogaganza. An all-beef hot dog is one thing, but the blend of beef of pork really takes the dog somewhere special — a harmonious convergence of flavor, texture and color achieved in no other frankfurter combination. This mighty culinary creation very nearly excuses the abomination that occurred later that night. After winding down the evening Wolfie’s style, something massive was called for. Something understated. Something tasteful. Something that showcased a bit of creativity and lent some variety to the 4 a.m. all-beef reinforcements: Turkey dogs wrapped in turkey bacon and slow grilled, of course. So it was awful, but ladies and gentlemen, we nonetheless present you with the Turdogen.

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